Things to do in Vathy (Meganisi) and Kalamos: full guide to a secret Greek island

Par Gabriel Goldberg 22 July 2026 11 min read

There are two ways to be a tiny Greek island in 2026. The first is Kalamos : 600 inhabitants, two tavernas, 1990s Audi 80s parked plateless in the lanes, a "Center" road sign that makes you smile because there is precisely no centre — just life. The second is Vathy on Meganisi : a naturally deep harbour (that's what vathy means in Greek), turquoise water, a pastel church, and super-yachts lined up like a mini Cannes Boat Show . Two islands three nautical miles apart. Two worlds. I visited both in the same day. Here is what to see, do and eat. Waterfront restaurant terrace in Vathy on Meganisi at sunset: white tablecloths, blue Greek chairs, sailing yachts moored alongside, 19th-century yellow bell tower in the background. Where are Kalamos and Meganisi? Kalamos ( Καλαμος ) and Meganisi ( Μεγανήσι ) are two of the smallest Ionian islands , sitting between Lefkada and mainland Greece, east of Skorpios — the private island where Aristotle Onassis, his daughter Christina and his son Alexander are buried. You reach them by local ferry: Meganisi from Nydri on Lefkada, Kalamos from Mytikas or Palairos on the Aetolia-Acarnania coast. Both belong to the intimate constellation that also includes Paxos , Ithaca and Fiskardo . Kalamos: 600 souls and a "Center" sign that makes you smile Kalamos is a 25 km² island , one proper village — Kalamos-chora , at the foot of Mount Vouni — and one small hamlet, Episkopi, at the other end. In total: 600 permanent inhabitants . A third are fishermen,…