Kastos (Greece): what to do on the secret island of 35 souls

Par Gabriel Goldberg 25 July 2026 9 min read

Kastos, you can barely see it on the map. 5 km² of maquis, two hills, a single lane climbing from the harbour. Thirty-five year-round inhabitants . A figure you repeat, incredulous, to every person you meet: thirty-five. And yet, stepping off the little ferry, one thing hits you: the energy . A warmth, a hospitality, an understated elegance that leaves the busiest Cyclades in the shade. Here is why this tiny island became one of my favourite Ionian discoveries — and why sailboats from all over the world now call in its bay. View from the stone promenade over Kastos bay: sailing yachts anchored in crystal-blue water, restored windmill on the hilltop, white stone quay, Greek flag. Where is Kastos and how to get there? Kastos ( Καστός ) is one of the smallest inhabited Ionian islands . It sits three nautical miles south of Kalamos , east of Ithaca and just off the mainland coast of Aetolia-Acarnania . You reach it by local ferry from Mytikas or Palairos — the same small boat that serves Kalamos, with an extra call at Kastos. Crossing: 45 minutes, roughly €6. In summer, one to two daily runs; in winter, twice a week. Thirty-five inhabitants: the off-season life It's the figure that strikes. Thirty-five souls live on Kastos year-round. A baker, a grocer, two fishermen, a few families tending the olive groves, the priest who also serves Kalamos, and a handful of ex-Athenians who came back to grow old facing the sea. Chatting with a local on the café terrace, he tells me: "In…